Friday 8 March 2013

Open Question: Help with ordering a suit - "big" vs "portly"?

I have been browsing JC Penney's website, attempting to find a decent suit for academic and church occasions which require one. I have decided to go with a Stafford Black (pin) Stripe suit (I personally like the style and think I could pull it off), partially because it is one of the few available in my size range.

My concern is the difference between the terms "big" and "portly" in sizing. I know that portly typically means a lower "drop" (difference between chest and waste sizes) when referring to a whole suit, but I've never really understood the technical meaning of the term "big" - all I know is that when I have to buy "big" stafford shirts to get a large enough neck size (20) for myself, I end up with a poofy, baggy mess around my arms and waste (Granted part of the problem may have stemmed from me getting 36-37 arm length, as 34-35 seemed a bit short from stafford, and had a reverse effect which made the shirt fit smaller). I eventually ended up forking out the money for nicer-quality shirts from Men's Wearhouse that actually fit my neck and arms without feeling too baggy, but that's another story.

With the suit I am trying to order, the jacket I will be ordering will undoubtedly not be int he "regular" chest size range, but I'm curious as to what range I should get. I have a size 52 regular (regular length as well) stafford jacket, but it has come to be a bit too small around the waste. Should I jump up to a 54 (big or portly) or try a 52 portly? Will that give me more adequate room around the waste while preserving the chest size, which seems to work (I need to check my chest size, but 52 usually isn't a problem)?

Lastly, as for the pants, how the heck are "big", "portly", "regular", or any term relevant, and why are they separate? With the inseam aside, isn't there only one other measurement - the waste? Since it isn't relative to any chest size, why would pants be considered to be in any sort of fit? Or does the ft affect, say, something like the leg diameter or something like that? I ask because the pants I'd like to order are backordered in BIG - 46, but they're readily available in PORTLY - 46 (30 inseam for both). I'd preferably like to have my suit by the end of next weak, but with the "big" pants backordered, I may have to go with "portly" to get them in time for ANY occasion I would like to wear them for (otherwise, it's useless to have the jacket in time, as it would look tacky with the solid black pants). Is there a difference, or is this just messy book-keeping on the website?

Any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated!


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